Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Base Camp- Camp One- Camp Two- to Base Camp 23rd to 27th (diary extract from mark)

“Tip-toe through the Tulips”.

A shocking song indeed, but certainly one that springs to mind as we tip toe through the infamous and treacherous Khumbu Icefall on our way from Base Camp to Camp One.

Finally it starts to feel as if we are getting our teeth into the climb and further enhancing the necessary steps needed in our acclimatization program.

Communication issues still continue, and I apologise for not  including any pictures with this blog, however I promise to include plenty at the appropriate time.

I climbed with Simon and Travis Holland; Dan from Oz, Andre from the UK; Tanner from the US; and Paul from Sth Africa. We all worked well together as a team and made sure we climbed safely through the icefall up to Camp One at around 6100 m.

The trip from base camp certainly had a few more twists and turns compared to 2005, with way more crevasse- ladder crossings and two massive vertical ladder climbs before surfacing onto the Western Cwm. It’s a very tiring trip especially for the first time before you reach  a very basic row of tents signifying our home for the night.

The next day we set off for Camp Two, which was the first night it had been opened for our team at 6300m. It’s here we have a mess tent and cook waiting for us…together with incredible views of what lies ahead of us in reaching Camp 3 and 4, before tackling the Sth East Ridge of Everest leading to the Summit.

During our two night stay, we ventured up to the end of the Camp Two area to speak to the Nepalese soldiers guarding the perimeter where no-one can climb higher until the Chinese summit from the North. They were extremely nice and wished us well…although we understand their orders are pretty severe for anyone that tries to climb higher above the restricted zone.

After two nights stay in minus 18 C temperatures lying on frozen ice separated only by a thin thermarest ( yes your bum does touch the ice and you freeze all night gasping for oxygen at the same time), we headed down as quickly and safely as we could to Base Camp on the 27th.

Time for a shower, coke, food and a beer or two –then we all slept incredibly soundly in the relative comfort of our Base Camp beds.

The latest developments- which change by the day- relate to a total shut down of the mountain above base camp on the first and second of May. After that we hope we can go back up to Camp Two for another acclimatization run leading up to the deadline on the 10th May…when hopefully we can set up our Camp 3 and beyond….and let the weather windows and jet stream winds determine our movements upwards.

Due to the break we intend to move lower down the mountain tomorrow, perhaps to Pangboche, for a few days break where oxygen is a bit more plentiful.

Unfortunately email access doesn’t allow me to receive any of your messages, but via the phone Nicole has read a few of them to me, and I appreciate your support.

Special hello’s to young Ashley Cochrane (hope I got that spelling right!) and to everyone at Tigerland…go boys!  And thanks to Chris McLoed for patching through our horse race at 6300m…just beaten a nose.  My curses nearly caused an avalanche!!

Hugs and Warm Regards to everyone else!

Georgie

PS I expect my next communication will be early May. So you can all  behave until then.

 

 

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Sunday, April 27, 2008

April 28 Update

Mark has just returned to Base Camp from Camp 2 having spent 2 nights there.  All went well and he sounds fit, healthy and still able to give orders!!  (sorry Mark, I have been a bit slack on the footy score updates and horse race result…..thanks to all those who have let him know)

Chloe and I made a map of Mt Everest and included, each camp, snow, rocks etc (and a hot air balloon Chloe thinks her Dad will be using once he is at the top to quickly get back down!!) - with each conversation Chloe asks Mark “are you at number 1 yet or number 2″, meaning camp 1 etc.  Mark told chloe yesterday that he was back at his house (Base Camp) which resulted in a reaction of hysterics as  “Dad didn’t go to number 3 or number 4, he has to go back now and get back up to the top……..he has to get in that hot air balloon”…………………………..arrggghhh the joys of explaining the Mt Everest Climb to a 4 year old.      Nicole

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Wednesday, April 23, 2008

Base Camp Shenanigans- 14th to the 22nd (diary extract from mark)

Let the Game Begin.

Much has happened between the above dates. Unfortunately the “black-out” on getting emails out together with the frustrating IT problems associated with syncing my computer to the sat system continues.

I must be brief, as tomorrow I finally head up the icefall to stay one night at Camp One circa 6100m…and then continue to our Camp Two for two nights circa 6400m.

This will be the first time our Camp Two will be open, and we are expecting some pretty rudimentary conditions…but it’s all part of the acclimatization process.

I’ll be climbing with Simon and Travis Holland, Tanner (US), Paul ( Sth Africa) and Andre( UK). All great guys and we’ll work really well together.

I’ve just taken photographs of the three teams Henry’s providing logistics for this year as we ate our lunch in the mess tents. But I’ll include these and do an official “meet the fockers” description of everyone when I return in four days time.

You will notice a few shots of views from my tent and the momento’s which keep me sane while missing loved one’s and the comforts of home.

Although the temperature falls below -10c each night…they keep me warm.

I’ve also included two shots taken at night (can’t wait to show you the complete set of these night time pictures).

Since arriving at Base Camp we’ve completed our religious ceremony called a puja; done a few acclimatization walks/climbs around base camp ie Pumori Base Camp and Kala Pattha…and I’v included a few photo’s for each of these.

We’ve also done some “play” in the dreaded Kumbu Icefall…practicing ladder crossings, ice-climbing, abseiling, arm-wraps etc…as well as re-acquainting ourselves with our crampon techniques.

Always a few butterflies before heading up the mountain, but these only help us to focus on climbing safely.

Special hello’s to my wife Nicole and little Chloe and Harry. Sade’s “Your love is King” remains the song on my ipod devoted to you.

Hugs and Warm Regards to everyone else.

Georgie

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Dingboche to Lobuche and Base Camp 11th,12th & 13th (diary extract from mark)

At last we finally arrive.

Emotions certainly racng through my veins and mind as the reality again sinks in of the enormity of the task ahead of us.

Time to focus…yet also to try and enjoy each moment despite the obstacles and challenges.

I gain strength knowing that many of you will be climbing with me.

A few more shots of the journey in. It’s a grand arena.

Special hello’s to my family and their friends.

Hugs and warm regards to everyone else.

Georgie

Posted by Georgie at 13:51:32 | Permalink | Comments Off

Namche to Pangboche- Tuesday 8th (diary extract direct from mark)

“As I rounded the corner up the hill from Namche Bizar, Mt Everest finally came into view.

Co-incidentally at the exact same moment the next song on my ipod ticked over and the Hoodoo Gurus ballad “It’s Death Defying” greeted my ear drums.

So true…yet extremely climbable given the right conditions, good health and an acceptance of some physical and mental discomfort along the way.

More importantly, with the right decisions the risks can be significantly diminished…and I certainly intend to make the right decisions once again in this my new attempt in 2008.”

Hello once again and my apologies for the long delay in sending these new updates to you. A combination of IT / Satellite issues coupled with the restrictions on any form of communication have sabotaged my attempts to be in frequent email contact.

Unfortunately I’ve not been able to access my normal emails and have reverted to a hotmail address to get these to you, but using “secret squirrel” antics I have been able to keep in daily phone contact with my family and office to keep my finger on the pulse.

Hopefully things will settle down once the torch reaches the top from the North, and I’ll be able to make a few more calls to many of you.

The walk to Pangboche was extremely pleasant and picturesque, and I’ve included a few pictures that hopefully capture the moment.

Special hello’s to all the magnets and their beautiful kids. Hugs and warm regards to everyone else.

Georgie

Posted by Georgie at 13:50:25 | Permalink | Comments Off

Thursday, April 17, 2008

Base Camp

Communication is still being worked through at Base Camp but Mark has called in and provided me with details to tell you.

He has now been at Base Camp for a few days (for those who don’t know Base Camp is just over 5000m).  Yesterday was Puja. This is a Bhuddist religious ceremony performed by a Lama, who comes up from down the valley especially for the occasion.  Climbers (including Sherpas) offer up items of their climbing equipment to be blessed by the Lama and no one can set foot on the mountain until the Puja has taken place.

Today Mark rested - washed clothes, bathed, sorted through gear etc.  He has also spent time working through communications (ie internet access) as there have been a few complications from the authorities. 

I am hoping that tomorrow night I will know his climbing plan as they are still waiting for Camp 1 (about 6050m) to be set up. 

Overall Mark sounds good and can’t beleive how busy Base Camp is.
Nicole

Posted by Georgie at 10:54:22 | Permalink | Comments (2)

Wednesday, April 9, 2008

A Brief Update from Nicole

Spoke to Mark tonight as did the kids - Chloe proudly telling Mark that her Uncle Gavin had been teaching her how to rock climb  so she could go climbing with Dad………”great” I say, just what I need, another climber!!

Mark sounds well and he advises me that he is now 4 days out from Base Camp, so hopefully he will be able to load a few photo’s for us to see.

The site will be updated once he arrives at Base Camp.
Nicole

Posted by Georgie at 12:50:55 | Permalink | Comments (4)

Tuesday, April 8, 2008

Namche Bizar

Have arrived in Namche Bizar after spending one nite at Monjo after being flown in to Lukla.

This is day three on the trek in, and all part of the 9 day approx acclimatization process to get to base camp.

Where we stayed at Monjo was around 2830 meters…then we walked up a big hill in rain and snow to spend two nights in Namche Bizar at around 3400m.

Tomorrow we head off up the hills to Tangboche and on to spend two more nights at Pangboche at around 3900m.

We’ve been staying in small lodges along the way…and when I grasp technology a bit more…and also have access to recharging my computer at base camp on our solar panels…I promise to upload a few photo’s for you all.

I’ve been traveling with four team members…all from Melbourne!

Simon Holland who many of you have met…he has been on Cho Oyu 2002, North Pole 2004, Everest 2005 and Matterhorn August 07 adventures with me before. Simon’s a doctor and surgeon so is very handy to have along on these expeditions.

His brother Travis…who joined us on the Matterhorn…and has recently left the SAS to become my full time minder.

And a new Aussie we’ve met called Daniel Bull who’s been working overseas for Accenture for a few years in London,Spain and Germany. He’s the youngest ofus at 27 and 6ft 4 ish…so I’m hoping to sneak into his backpack and hope he doesn’t know it on summit day.

Spoke to my gorgeous family today which made me feel good…then sad!…but lovely to hear their voices.

Just waiting for the opportunity to recharge my phone then hope to make a few calls over the next couple of days to say hello.

Warm regards to all my associates,clients and work colleagues…hugs and kisses to everyone else.

Georgie

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Friday, April 4, 2008

Bald in Katmandu

Hi everyone,

Here I am in Katmandu and boy is this iternet thing going to be a challenge!

The bloke peddling the bike to try and get the internet speed up, just isn’t peddling hard enough, no matter how many rupees I throw his way.

Katmandu hasn’t changed. Still chaotic in every way and extremely funny in most.

I’ve finished all my last minute packing and we leave tomorrow to start the  trek into base camp, which should last around 9 days or so…accordingly there may be a big gap in postings until I get ino base camp.

At worst I will try and call a message through to Nicole or my team at the office on Sat phone to keep you in the loop.

We fly by crop duster or giro-copter to Lukla tomorrow, and we’re all itching to get moving.

I’ll introduce the full team to you at base camp, and hopefully be in a position to upload some pictures by then as well.

One could be a bit scary ie me.

Using my fluent Nepali nurtured over 3 previous trips to the region…I am now basically bald.

Instead of getting No 2’s and paying No 1’s at the barbers ( butchers?)…I ended up getting No 1’s and paying No 2’s.
( That is 200 rupees…and effectively just the straight clippers).

Women and children have been running from me in the streets, and all I need to do is start wearing orange robes and I’m sure I’d get a guernsey leading prayers in a buddhist monastry.

Instead I’ve asked the team to start referring to me as “GG”  - Guru Georgie- and I intend to hold counselling sessions at Tom & Jerry’s Hotel later this evening to instil “wisdom”amongst the team later this evening.

Must leave you here…the bloke riding the bike is getting tired and both the internet speed and lights are waning.

Warm Regards and Love to Many

GG

Georgie

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